Rhodes, Greece

Rhodes is one of those rare places that earns its reputation honestly. The largest of the Dodecanese islands sits closer to the Turkish coast than to Athens, and that geographical reality has shaped everything from its food to its architecture. Crusader fortresses, Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques, and Art Deco Italian buildings share streets with beach bars and tavernas — somehow none of it feels like a museum, because people actually live here. Rhodes rewards visitors who look beyond the sunbeds, and there’s genuinely a lot to find. As part of Greece, the island draws millions of visitors annually, yet it still manages to have corners that feel entirely its own.

What Rhodes Actually Feels Like

First-time visitors sometimes arrive expecting a simple beach island and leave quietly stunned. Rhodes has a split personality that becomes apparent within hours of landing. The north end of the island is decidedly cosmopolitan — cruise ships dock at Mandraki Harbour, restaurants cater to every language on earth, and the nightlife strips of Faliraki pulse until sunrise. Move into the walled Old Town, though, and the noise drops away. Cobbled lanes too narrow for cars, stone archways dripping with bougainvillea, cats asleep in doorways — it reads like a film set that forgot to stop being real.

The island is also larger than most people expect. At roughly 1,400 square kilometres, Rhodes takes about an hour and a half to drive from tip to tip. The east coast is calmer and better for swimming; the west coast is windier and greener but dramatic in its own way. The interior plateau hides pine forests, Byzantine churches in villages where nothing much has changed in decades, and valleys full of olive groves. Getting under the skin of Rhodes means spending time in all of these places, not just the postcard corners.

There’s also a lived-in quality that separates Rhodes from purely touristic Greek islands. Around 115,000 people call it home year-round, and the capital — Rhodes Town — functions as a real city with government offices, universities, and a working port. That gives it an energy that doesn’t entirely deflate when the summer crowds leave.

The Old Town: A Living Medieval City

The medieval walled city of Rhodes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval settlements in Europe — and both of those facts undersell it. The walls themselves, built by the Knights Hospitaller in the 14th and 15th centuries, stretch for four kilometres and rise to a height that makes you genuinely understand why sieges were so difficult. Walking the perimeter on the moat path gives a different view from the tourist crush inside.

The Street of the Knights (Ippoton) is the most famous lane inside the walls — a perfectly intact Gothic street lined with the inns of the various national chapters of the Knights. It runs slightly uphill toward the Palace of the Grand Master, which was restored during Italian occupation in the early 20th century to a grandeur that may have exceeded the original. The mosaic floors inside, looted from the island of Kos, are extraordinary. It’s worth paying for the combined ticket that includes the city’s archaeological museum, housed in the old Knights’ hospital.

The Turkish Quarter around Socratous Street is where the Old Town shifts character entirely. Ottoman fountains, hammams, and the Süleymaniye Mosque (currently under long-term restoration) sit alongside jewellery shops and carpet sellers. The Jewish Quarter, tucked into the southeastern corner near Plateia ton Evreon Martyron (Square of the Jewish Martyrs), is quieter and deeply moving — the square commemorates the 1,700 Jewish residents of Rhodes deported to Auschwitz in 1944, of whom fewer than 150 returned.

Mandraki Harbour, just outside the northern walls, is where the legendary Colossus of Rhodes supposedly stood astride the harbour entrance. Two columns topped with bronze deer now mark the spot. The harbour itself is charming in the early morning before the tour boats fill it — fishing boats, a line of windmills along the breakwater, and the domed rotunda of Agios Nikolaos lighthouse at the end of the pier.

Beyond the Walls: Rhodes Town’s Modern Side

Neohori — the “new town” north of the Old Town walls — is where Rhodes Town’s contemporary life plays out. This is where residents shop, where the better coffee shops sit, and where the Art Deco buildings from the Italian Fascist period (Rhodes was under Italian control from 1912 to 1943) create an unexpectedly elegant streetscape. The Market building on Plateia Rimini, with its horseshoe arcade, is a particular highlight that most visitors walk past without realising its architectural significance.

Elli Beach runs along the eastern side of the peninsula and is the closest proper beach to the town centre. It’s a municipal beach — organised, busy in summer, with water sports and sun loungers — and it works well as a convenient option when you want a swim without going far. The Aquarium at the northern tip of the peninsula is worth an hour, particularly for families, as it occupies a striking Italian-era underground building and features Mediterranean marine life.

The stretch of coast immediately south of the Old Town, around Zefyros and Akti Miaouli, has a more local character — neighbourhood cafés, a smaller beach, and the sense of a city that carries on regardless of whether tourists are watching. This is where you might find a good lunch away from the crowds.

The Rest of the Island: Villages, Valleys, and the Other Rhodes

Lindos sits about 50 kilometres south of Rhodes Town on the east coast, and the view from the approach road — a white cubic village cascading down to a turquoise bay, topped by an ancient acropolis on a sheer rock — is one of those sights that genuinely matches the photograph. The village itself is car-free and navigated by donkeys (or your own feet), and the narrow lanes are lined with 17th-century sea captain’s houses featuring elaborate carved doorways. The acropolis above combines Doric columns, a medieval fortress, and panoramic views in a way that somehow doesn’t feel cluttered.

The village of Archangelos, a few kilometres north of Lindos, is a working agricultural town that sees far fewer visitors despite its large Byzantine church, active pottery tradition, and genuine local atmosphere. Nearby Haraki is a tiny fishing village with one of the best informal lunch spots on the island — a handful of tavernas right on the water serving whatever came in that morning.

The interior rewards aimless driving. The road through the Petaloudes Valley (Valley of the Butterflies) between July and September draws visitors to see thousands of Jersey tiger moths congregating on the plane trees — they’re actually moths, not butterflies, but the effect is remarkable. The village of Embonas, high on the slopes of Mount Attavyros, is the centre of Rhodes wine production and has tavernas that serve lamb on the spit and Athiri white wine in a setting that feels genuinely removed from the coastal tourist circuit.

The far south of the island around Prasonisi — where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean and a sandspit connects to a small island — is prime territory for windsurfers and kitesurfers. The landscape here becomes almost barren and elemental, and it’s a reminder that Rhodes has an edge that its summer-resort reputation doesn’t always suggest.

Eating and Drinking on Rhodes

The food on Rhodes is better than the average Greek island, partly because the local population is large enough to sustain restaurants that cook for residents rather than just tourists, and partly because the island has its own culinary traditions worth seeking out. The Dodecanese location means Turkish and Middle Eastern influences turn up in ways they don’t in, say, the Cyclades.

Pitaroudia are the local chickpea fritters — crispy, slightly spiced, often served as a meze or street snack — and they’re so characteristic of Rhodes that locals get visibly enthusiastic if you mention them. Melekouni is a traditional sesame and honey sweet originally made for weddings, now sold year-round in delis around the Old Town. The island’s olive oil is exceptional, and its feta is often served drizzled with local thyme honey, a combination that sounds odd and tastes essential.

For fresh fish, the waterfront at Agia Marina, between Rhodes Town and Ialyssos on the west coast, has a string of family-run tavernas that have been feeding locals for generations. Order whatever is seasonal and don’t skip the sea urchin salad if it’s available. In Rhodes Town itself, the neighbourhood around Plateia Dorieos in the new town has several restaurants that cater primarily to locals — portions are larger, prices are lower, and no one is waving menus at you from the doorway.

The Old Town has its own restaurant ecosystem. Much of Socratous Street is tourist-trap territory, but the quieter lanes around Agiou Fanouriou and the Jewish Quarter have a handful of genuinely good spots. Look for places with handwritten daily specials, small interiors, and a preponderance of Greek customers.

Rhodes produces wine that deserves more recognition than it gets internationally. The CAIR cooperative has been making wine since the 1920s, and its sparkling wine — a method traditionelle made from Athiri grapes — is something of a local joke and a local pride simultaneously. More serious producers like Emery Winery in Embonas make Athiri and Mandilaria reds worth seeking out.

Getting Around the Island

Rhodes Town has a functioning bus network operated by RODA (east coast routes) and KTEL (west coast and interior), with the main terminal at the eastern end of the new town near Mandraki. Buses to Lindos run regularly throughout summer and cost around €6 one way — this is genuinely the easiest way to make that trip if you don’t have a car, as Lindos parking is a nightmare. Services to smaller villages are infrequent and not reliable enough for day-trip planning.

Renting a car is the most practical way to explore the interior and south of the island. Rates start from around €30–€40 per day in shoulder season and climb significantly in July and August. Most international rental companies have desks at the airport, and numerous local operators in Rhodes Town offer competitive rates — book ahead in high summer. Scooters and quad bikes are available widely and work well for shorter hops, but the main island roads carry fast-moving traffic and deserve respect.

Taxis are metered and reasonably priced for short urban trips. A taxi from the airport to Rhodes Town runs about €25–€30. For longer island trips, agree on a price before you go — drivers are generally willing to quote a flat rate for a day’s touring, which can work out economically for small groups.

Walking is entirely viable within Rhodes Town and mandatory in Lindos. The Old Town covers a manageable area on foot, though the cobblestones require appropriate footwear — the smooth stones become genuinely treacherous when wet.

Day Trips and Island Escapes

The Dodecanese archipelago positions Rhodes as a natural hub for island-hopping, and several nearby islands make compelling day trips or short overnight stays.

Symi is the most popular excursion from Rhodes — a 90-minute hydrofoil ride to a tiny island with a harbour village of extraordinary neoclassical architecture, painted in ochre and terracotta against steep hillsides. Day-trip boats leave Mandraki every morning in summer and return in the late afternoon. The main village, Gialos, is pretty but very busy by midday; walk up the 500-step Kali Strata staircase to the upper town of Horio for a dramatically quieter perspective and excellent views. The monastery of Panormitis in the south of the island is a major pilgrimage site accessible by boat.

Halki (sometimes spelled Chalki) is smaller and quieter than Symi, with a single village around its harbour and very little to do beyond swimming in clear water and eating well. That’s precisely the point. A couple of ferry connections weekly make it a better choice for an overnight stay than a day trip.

Tilos, further west in the archipelago, has a reputation as one of the most ecologically protected islands in the Aegean — it banned hunting decades ago and has a wildlife reserve. It’s quiet to the point of somnolence, which is either perfect or maddening depending on your temperament. The island was also notable for performing the first same-sex civil union ceremony in Greece in 2008.

Marmaris in Turkey is just 90 minutes by hydrofoil from Rhodes, and day trips across the border are popular. You’ll need a valid passport and technically require a Turkish visa (though EU citizens currently don’t need one, and many others can get an e-visa online beforehand). The crossing is straightforward and the contrast with Greek island life immediately apparent.

Practical Tips for Visiting Rhodes

When to go: May, June, and September are the sweet spots — warm enough for swimming, uncrowded enough to move around comfortably, and with accommodation and car rental prices that don’t require advance apologising. July and August are extremely hot (regularly above 35°C), the Old Town can feel like a slow-moving queue, and prices for everything spike. October still sees warm weather and empty beaches, though some businesses close from mid-October onward. Winter sees very limited tourist infrastructure but a genuinely interesting local-life experience for those who seek it.

Getting to Rhodes: Diagoras Airport (RHO) sits about 14 kilometres southwest of Rhodes Town. In summer it handles an enormous volume of charter traffic from across Europe; in winter, connections thin dramatically. Olympic Air and Sky Express connect Rhodes to Athens year-round, with the flight taking about an hour. The X1 express bus runs from the airport to the town centre for €3.50 and takes about 30 minutes. Taxis cost €25–€30. Ferry connections run from Piraeus (Athens’ port) with Blue Star Ferries — a journey of 14–18 hours depending on the route, passing through other Dodecanese islands along the way. It’s a genuinely pleasant way to arrive if you have the time and are combining island-hopping.

Where to stay: The Old Town is the most atmospheric base — staying inside the walls puts you immediately in the medieval city, though room sizes tend to be compact and noise from restaurants carries into the evening. The new town (Neohori) offers more amenities and easier parking. For a beach-resort holiday combined with island exploration, Ixia and Ialyssos on the west coast and Faliraki on the east provide a full range of hotel options. Lindos village has boutique accommodation for those who want to base themselves in the south.

What to avoid: The restaurant touts on Socratous Street in the Old Town are persistent — a simple “no thank you” and continued walking is the appropriate response. The beach at Faliraki in high summer can be overwhelming; it’s better in late September. Be cautious about boat excursion salespeople at Mandraki who promise “the best trip to Lindos” — the boat option is scenic but takes much longer than the bus and involves queuing with large groups. And avoid renting a quad bike if you have no experience; the hospital in Rhodes Town treats a depressingly predictable number of tourist injuries every summer.

Money and costs: Rhodes is moderately priced by western European standards. A decent taverna lunch of starters and a main with house wine comes to around €20–€25 per person. Old Town restaurants charge a premium for atmosphere; local eateries in the new town or villages cost noticeably less for equal quality. Museum entry is typically €3–€12, with the Palace of the Grand Master combined ticket at around €10 representing good value.

The island repays unhurried attention. Come with a few days at minimum, resist the urge to tick off every site, and spend at least one long afternoon in the Old Town after the day-trip crowds have gone back to their ships — when the light turns golden on the limestone walls and the lane cats emerge for their evening rounds. That’s when Rhodes does what it does best.

📷 Featured image by Christine Sandu on Unsplash.