Bern’s UNESCO Old Town: A Complete Arcade & Fountain Walking Guide

Bern is the kind of capital that never raises its voice. The medieval centre sits on a narrow peninsula inside a tight loop of the Aare, its sandstone facades stretching along cobbled streets, with covered arcades on both sides and brightly painted fountains every few hundred metres. UNESCO listed the Old Town in 1983, and it is one of the best-preserved medieval city centres in Europe. This guide covers how to walk it, which fountains to stop at, where to eat, and how it fits into a wider trip through Switzerland.

Why Bern’s Old Town Feels Different

Many visitors reach Bern from Zurich or Geneva expecting a smaller version of those cities. It is not. Zurich is a financial centre and Geneva an international one, while Bern is a government town that still lives like a large village. Politicians cycle to work, office workers eat lunch on the riverbank, and the shops close early. Officially Bern is the “federal city” rather than the capital, a modest title that suits it.

Duke Berthold V of Zähringen founded the town in 1191. According to legend he named it after the first animal he hunted, a bear (Bär), and bears are everywhere: on flags, on fountains, in the pit by the river, and in shop windows as chocolate. The medieval centre was largely rebuilt after a great fire in 1405 destroyed most of the timber houses. The new buildings were made of local sandstone, a soft grey-green stone that gives the streets their uniform look. That uniformity is why the Old Town is more coherent than most medieval centres, which tend to be a patchwork of periods.

Most of what you see dates from the 15th to 18th centuries, when Bern was the most powerful city-state north of the Alps. The wealth of that era paid for the Gothic Münster, the Renaissance fountains and the sandstone arcades. The result is an Old Town that is still a working centre, with real shops, offices, a parliament and a university nearby, rather than a stage set.

How the Old Town Is Laid Out

Bern’s geography is easy to grasp once you see it on a map. The Aare curls around the Old Town in a tight horseshoe, so the centre is a long peninsula. A single spine of streets runs along its length, and the name changes every few blocks: Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kramgasse and Gerechtigkeitsgasse. Together they form one long, gently curving avenue running from the railway station on the west end to the Nydegg Bridge on the east.

The streets running parallel to it are quieter and more local. Postgasse and Junkerngasse, on the river side, have the old patrician townhouses and the odd gallery. The slopes down to the Aare hold the Matte, the old workers’ district at river level, which has its own dialect, Mattenenglisch, and a village feel.

Across the river lie the districts where Bernese people actually live and go out:

• Kirchenfeld, south across the Kirchenfeld Bridge, is leafy and home to several museums and embassies.
• Länggasse, northwest of the station, is the university quarter, with student cafés and cheaper lunches.
• Lorraine and Breitenrain, across the bridges to the north, are the creative neighbourhoods, with independent bars, bakeries and small theatres.

The peninsula is only about a kilometre and a half long, so you can see it all on foot in a day and still have time for a swim.

Six Kilometres of Lauben

The arcades, called Lauben, are the defining feature of Bern. Roughly six kilometres of continuous covered walkways line the Old Town streets, among the longest in Europe. Here, the arcade is not a tourist amenity but part of how the city works. Upper floors of the buildings were extended out over the pavement, supported by stone arches and pillars, and the walkway beneath remained public. In winter and in the rain you can walk almost the whole length of the centre without an umbrella.

The arcades also made it practical for merchants to display goods in all weather, and they explain why shopping here has always been a leisurely activity. Today the Lauben hold fashion boutiques, bookshops, watchmakers, delicatessens and independent homeware stores, alongside a few chain shops that have to operate within the heritage rules.

The best part sits below street level. Many arcade shops have stairs leading down to vaulted cellars, which used to store wine and goods. Look for steps down at street level and a sign at the top. Some cellars are restaurants and bars, some are theatres or small galleries, and others are shops selling vintage records, antiques or cheese. They are not marked on most maps, which is part of the fun. Stepping down one is the best way to understand how the old merchant economy worked: everything below, everything displayed along the arcade, and living space above.

A few practical points about the arcades:

• The pillars are broad and the walkways quite narrow in places, so at busy times it can feel like a slow-moving conveyor belt. Early morning and Sunday are the quietest times.
• Look up. Many arcade ceilings have vaulted stonework, painted decoration or old trade signs.



• Arcades on the north side of the main street get less sun, so in winter the south side is warmer for a walk.

The Walking Route, East to West or West to East

The Old Town is easiest to walk in one direction, starting at the station and finishing at the Bear Park, then returning by a different route. Allow three to four hours with stops, or a full day if you add museums and a swim. The route below follows the main spine and picks up the most important sights.

Station to Käfigturm

From the station, cross the large Bahnhofplatz and head down Spitalgasse. Your first landmark is the Baroque Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit), just opposite the station, which is free to enter and worth a quick look for its bright, airy interior. Continue along Spitalgasse, with its first Lauben, and you will soon see the Käfigturm, a former city gate and later a prison, now used for exhibitions. Along this stretch you will pass the first figure fountains, the Bagpiper and others, which are covered in the next section.

Marktgasse to the Zytglogge

Marktgasse is the busiest shopping street and the broadest, with the arcades at their most commercial. At the eastern end stands the Zytglogge, the medieval clock tower. The astronomical clock dates from 1530 and shows the time, date, zodiac and moon phase. The show begins four minutes before each hour, when figures come out and a jester rings bells. It draws a crowd every hour, so for a good view arrive five minutes early or watch from the side. Tower tours of the clockwork run in season and are worth it if you like machinery.

Kramgasse and Einstein

Beyond the tower, Kramgasse is the most photogenic street in the city, with its long line of arcades and two major fountains. At number 49 is the Einstein House, where Albert Einstein lived with his family from 1903 to 1905 while working at the patent office, the years in which he published his most celebrated papers. The flat is preserved as a small museum. It is an intimate space, and the story gives context to the quiet, bureaucratic feel of the city.

Gerechtigkeitsgasse and the Nydegg

The last stretch, Gerechtigkeitsgasse, is quieter and more residential, with a few galleries and good cafés. It ends at the Nydegg Church and the Nydegg Bridge. Cross the bridge and turn right to reach the Bärenpark on the riverbank, where the city’s bears live in an enclosure of grass, trees and a pool running up the hillside. Entry is free. It replaced the old concrete pit in 2009 and is far more humane. Continue uphill to the Rosengarten for the postcard view of the Old Town across the Aare, the best skyline in the city, especially an hour before sunset.

Reading the Fountains

Bern has more than a hundred public fountains, and a few dozen are historic. About a dozen figure fountains from the 16th century are the real gems. The sculptor most associated with them is Hans Gieng, who worked in the 1540s. The statues stand on tall pillars in the middle of the street, each topped by a painted figure, and most still run with spring water.

Here are the ones to look for:

• Kindlifresserbrunnen (Ogre Fountain), at Kornhausplatz, shows a giant figure eating a child with more in his sack and belt. Nobody is sure whether it was a warning to children, a carnival figure or a symbol of something political. It is the most photographed fountain in the city, and a little unsettling.



• Zähringerbrunnen, on Kramgasse, honours the city’s founder, shown as a bear in armour holding the banner.
• Simsonbrunnen (Samson), also on Kramgasse, shows the biblical hero wrestling a lion. The strength theme was a message about the city’s power.
• Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (Justice Fountain), on Gerechtigkeitsgasse, is arguably the finest. Lady Justice stands blindfolded with sword and scales, and at her feet are the heads of a pope, an emperor, a sultan and a mayor. The message in the 1540s was that no ruler is above the law.
• Pfeiferbrunnen (Bagpiper) and Schützenbrunnen (Marksman) stand along Spitalgasse and Marktgasse, with figures dressed in the styles of the period.
• Mosesbrunnen, at Münsterplatz, shows Moses holding the tablets of the law.
• Vennerbrunnen, at Rathausplatz, shows a banneret, a military standard-bearer, in front of the town hall.

The fountains are not just decoration. Bern’s drinking water historically came from springs, and many of the fountains still supply drinking water. If a sign does not say otherwise, the water is safe to drink. Refill your bottle at them, as locals do. Most have wide troughs, and you will see people filling bottles, cooling their hands in summer or letting dogs drink. The paintwork is renewed periodically, so colours are vivid.

Off the Main Street

The Berner Münster, a late-Gothic cathedral begun in 1421, has the tallest spire in Switzerland at just over 100 metres. The tower was only finished in 1893. Climbing it takes about 344 steps and rewards you with a panoramic view over rooftops, river and, on clear days, the Bernese Alps. The main portal has a famous Last Judgment, with hundreds of carved figures that are easy to miss unless you stand close and look up.

On Bundesplatz, in front of the Federal Palace, 26 water jets rise from the paving stones, one for each canton. In summer children run through them. Markets run here on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and the setting makes shopping for cheese and fruit unusually dignified. The Federal Palace itself offers free guided visits when parliament is not in session, but you must book ahead and bring identification.

The Matte sits below the Old Town and is reached by a steep stair or by the public lift near the Münster terrace. Once the home of craftsmen and boatmen, it is a quiet quarter of narrow lanes beside the river, with old mills, a couple of bars and a village atmosphere that feels like another city entirely.

If you have time for a museum, the Kunstmuseum Bern has a good collection of Swiss art, and the Zentrum Paul Klee, in a wave-shaped building on the eastern edge of town, is devoted to the painter who spent much of his life in the city. It is a short bus ride from the centre and best saved for a rainy day.

Down by the Aare

The Aare is the city’s living room in summer, and here the river stops being scenery and becomes an activity. On hot days, Bernese people carry a waterproof bag, walk upstream, jump in and float downstream with the current for fifteen to twenty minutes. The typical route runs from the Eichholz or Marzili area downstream towards the Marzili public baths, passing through the heart of town. The water is clean, cold and fast, with temperatures around 18 to 20°C in high summer.

Take it seriously. The current is strong and the river is not a pool, so swim only in summer and in settled weather. Get out at the designated exit points, not just wherever you like, and ask locals about conditions. The Marzili baths are free, with a lawn, a diving platform and small pools, and make a very good spot even if you do not swim in the river itself. Do not attempt the river after heavy rain or snowmelt, when levels and speed rise.

In other seasons, the riverside paths are lovely for walking. The Aare footpaths run from Marzili up to the Nydegg Bridge and on to the Rosengarten, giving a flat, shaded alternative to the cobbled streets.

Eating in Bern

Bernese food is hearty, and portions are generous. The best-known dish is the Berner Platte, an enormous plate of sauerkraut or beans with various pork cuts, sausages and boiled potatoes. It is designed for cold days and big appetites, so share it. A more modest local dish is Rösti, the crisp grated-potato cake, which is of Bernese farmers’ origin and is served with eggs, bacon or cheese. For dessert, look for meringues with double cream, a speciality from the nearby Gruyère region that is sold in many cafés. Bern is also associated with chocolate: Toblerone was invented here in 1908.

Where to eat depends on mood and budget:

• Kornhauskeller: the former granary cellar has a vaulted Baroque hall with painted columns, and is one of the grandest dining rooms in the city. It is pricey, but even a drink at the bar is memorable.
• Altes Tramdepot: a brewery restaurant overlooking the Bear Park, with local beers and Swiss comfort food, and a terrace with a great view over the river.
• Restaurant Harmonie: a traditional, long-standing fondue and Swiss-cuisine place on Hotelgasse, popular with locals and with a warm, unfussy atmosphere.
• Lorraine and Länggasse: for cheaper, more casual meals, cross the river. These districts have good bakeries, student cafés and international restaurants at lower prices than the centre.



• The Tuesday and Saturday market: for picnic ingredients, buy cheese, bread, cured meats and fruit, then eat on a riverbank bench.

Switzerland is expensive, and Bern is no exception. A main course in a sit-down restaurant often costs about CHF 25 to 40, which is roughly $28 to $45, and a coffee is around CHF 4.50 to 5.50. Lunch menus (Tagesmenü) are better value. If you visit in late November, you will find Zibelemärit, the onion market, where stalls sell braided onions and onion tarts, and the town fills with confetti-throwing locals.

Getting There and Getting Around

Bern has a small airport, but most visitors arrive via Zurich Airport, from which direct trains reach Bern in about an hour and ten minutes. From Geneva the train takes roughly one hour and forty-five minutes. Basel is about an hour away. Trains are frequent, punctual and use the same station that sits right at the edge of the Old Town.

The Old Town is small and pedestrian-friendly, and you will walk almost everywhere. For longer distances, trams and buses run by Bernmobil serve the station, Bärengraben, Zentrum Paul Klee and the outer neighbourhoods. A few useful facts:

• Hotel guests staying overnight in the city usually receive a Bern Ticket, which gives free use of public transport inside the city zone. Ask when you check in.
• The Swiss Travel Pass covers city transport as well as the national network.
• Single tickets are purchased at machines or via the app before you board. Inspectors do check.
• Bern is flat enough in the centre for walking, but the climbs from the river up to the Old Town can be steep, so wear comfortable shoes. The cobbles are uneven.

Cars are not useful inside the centre. Much of the Old Town is limited to pedestrians, trams and delivery vehicles, and parking is expensive. Leave any car at a park-and-ride lot or skip it altogether.

Where to Stay

For a first visit, stay in or beside the Old Town. You can walk everywhere, hear the church bells, and get the streets to yourself in the early morning, which is the best time to enjoy the arcades. Hotels near the station are practical for early trains, though the area is less atmospheric. Some of the most appealing small hotels sit on the Old Town streets themselves, with rooms in historic buildings. Book early for summer and for the Christmas market season.

If you want a quieter and cheaper base, consider Kirchenfeld, which is elegant, residential and a short tram ride or walk across the bridge. Lorraine and Länggasse offer a more local, informal stay, with plenty of good places to eat and drink. There is also a youth hostel on the Aare side of town, in a good riverside location. Hotels in Bern often price higher on weekdays, when government and business travel peaks, and cheaper at weekends, which is the opposite of most tourist cities.

Day Trips Worth Taking

Bern is one of the best bases in the country for day trips, because the train network radiates from it and most journeys are short.

• Thun (about 20 to 25 minutes): a lakeside town with a castle above the old centre, a river-split main street with raised pavements, and boat trips on Lake Thun. A pleasant half-day.
• Fribourg (about 20 minutes): a medieval city on a gorge, with a lower town of cobbled lanes and covered bridges, and a French-German language border running through it. Fewer tourists than Bern.



• Murten / Morat (about 30 minutes): a small walled town with a complete circuit of ramparts you can walk, and a lake with swimming in summer.
• Interlaken and the Bernese Oberland (about 50 minutes to Interlaken): the gateway to the Alps. You can reach Interlaken and take a lake boat or mountain train. It makes a full day, and the weather decides everything, so check the forecast.
• Emmental: the rolling countryside of the famous cheese. A show dairy at Affoltern im Emmental explains how the holey cheese is made, and the farms and villages are very photogenic.
• Lucerne (about one hour): further away, but doable, with its famous wooden bridge and lakeside Old Town.

One more local option is the Gurten, the hill just south of town, which has a funicular, a viewing tower and walking trails. It takes you out of the city in about fifteen minutes and shows the Bernese skyline from above.

Practical Tips and What to Skip

Timing. Visit in late spring, early autumn, or the first half of summer for the best balance of weather and crowds. July and August are warm and ideal for the river, but hotels are busier. December has a pleasant Christmas market, with stalls along the arcades and the Münsterplatz. Winters are cold but atmospheric, and the arcades keep the weather off.

Opening hours. Shops are closed on Sundays, apart from a few at the station. Some small shops also close on Monday mornings, and many shut by 6:30 or 7 pm on weekdays. If you plan to shop for gifts, do it on Saturday or in the week. Restaurants often close one or two days a week, so check before you set out.

What to skip. Don’t try to see every museum. Choose two at most and spend the rest of the time walking, eating and swimming. Avoid eating at restaurants right on the Zytglogge or in front of the station, where prices are high and quality can be uneven.

Money and payment. Switzerland uses the Swiss franc, not the euro. Cards are accepted nearly everywhere, and contactless payment is standard, but a few small market stalls prefer cash.

Tipping. Service is included in Swiss prices. Rounding up the bill is appreciated but not expected.

Accessibility. Cobbles, steps into cellar venues and some steep streets make parts of the Old Town hard for wheelchairs and prams. The main arcades are mostly level, and the public lifts, including the one down to the Matte, help.

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📷 Featured image by Xavier von Erlach on Unsplash.