Interlaken, Switzerland

What Interlaken Actually Is

Interlaken sits on a narrow strip of flat land between two lakes — Thunersee to the west and Brienzersee to the east — with the Bernese Oberland’s most dramatic peaks rising behind it on all sides. The Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau form a wall of ice and rock to the south that you can see from the middle of town on a clear day. It sounds almost too scenic to be real, and honestly, sometimes it is.

This is one of Switzerland‘s most visited towns, and it shows. The main drag is busy with tour groups, souvenir shops, and watch boutiques aimed squarely at Asian tourists, who make up a substantial portion of visitors. None of that is a criticism — Interlaken has earned its reputation, and the infrastructure that comes with mass tourism actually works in your favor. Trains run constantly, trails are well-marked, and even the budget end of the accommodation market is decent.

What Interlaken is not is a place you come to for cobblestone charm or an authentic Swiss village experience. It’s a launching pad — a remarkably well-positioned one — for mountains, lakes, gorges, glaciers, and some of the most spectacular alpine scenery in Europe. Treat it that way and it will deliver more than almost anywhere else on the continent.

The Two Towns: Ost and West

Interlaken is technically one municipality, but it functions as two distinct poles connected by the Höheweg, a long boulevard flanked by grand hotels and the open green space of the Höhematte meadow. Once you understand the split, navigation becomes intuitive.

Interlaken West is the older, more commercial center. The main post office, larger supermarkets, and the majority of the town’s shops cluster here. The West train station connects to Thun and Bern, making it the gateway from the Swiss Plateau. The area around Marktgasse has a handful of good local restaurants and a slightly less tourist-filtered atmosphere than the main boulevard.

Interlaken Ost (East) is the departure point for the Bernese Oberland mountain railways — the trains to Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, and ultimately the Jungfraujoch. If your trip is oriented around mountain excursions, staying close to Ost makes logistical sense. It’s also where you’ll find the boat pier for lake cruises on Brienzersee, and the area has a slightly quieter, more residential feel once you step away from the station.

In between, the Höhematte meadow is one of Interlaken’s genuine pleasures. Paragliders land on it regularly throughout the day — sometimes a dozen at a time — and the unobstructed view south toward the Jungfrau from this flat green space is what most people picture when they imagine Interlaken. Sitting on the grass watching gliders descend against that backdrop costs nothing and beats any museum in town.

The Adrenaline Capital of the Alps

Interlaken’s identity as an adventure sports hub isn’t marketing spin — it’s genuinely earned. The combination of mountains, rivers, cliffs, and organized infrastructure makes it one of the few places in Europe where you can do serious outdoor activities without specialist connections or extensive planning.

Skydiving over the Jungfrau region is available from Interlaken Airport in Matten. Tandem jumps from around 4,000 meters give you views of the glacier chain that most people only see from train windows. The jump itself lasts under a minute of freefall, but the visual payoff is enormous.

Canyoning in the Saxeten or Grimsel valleys is arguably the region’s most distinctive experience. You descend through water-carved gorges, jumping, sliding, and rappelling through ice-cold meltwater. Most operators include all equipment and transport from Interlaken. Half-day trips are common; budget around three to four hours total.

River rafting on the Lütschine and Aare rivers ranges from easy family floats to Class IV white water depending on the season and water levels. Spring and early summer bring the highest flows after snowmelt, which makes for the most intense experience.

Via ferrata routes in the surrounding valleys offer a middle ground between hiking and climbing. The Allmenalp route near Kandersteg and several routes above Grindelwald are accessible to anyone reasonably fit, with fixed cables and iron rungs doing the technical work for you.

Paragliding from Beatenberg or Saxeten with a tandem pilot is one of the most popular activities in the region. Flights typically last 15 to 30 minutes, landing on the Höhematte in the center of town. The approach over the lakes with the mountains behind you is genuinely extraordinary.

Most adventure operators are clustered around Interlaken Ost and the Höheweg. Outfitters like Outdoor Interlaken and Alpinraft have strong safety records and run multiple activities, so you can combine experiences through a single booking. Prices are Swiss-level expensive, but the quality of guiding and equipment is high.

Riding the Rails to the Roof of Europe

The Jungfraujoch — marketed as the “Top of Europe” at 3,454 meters — is Interlaken’s most famous day excursion and one of the great railway journeys anywhere in the world. The full trip from Interlaken Ost involves three separate trains: to Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen, then up to Kleine Scheidegg, then through the interior of the Eiger itself to the summit station. The tunnel through the mountain took sixteen years to complete and opened in 1912. That fact doesn’t get old.

At the top, there’s a research station, a restaurant, a post office (yes), and the Sphinx Observatory with panoramic views over the Aletsch Glacier — the longest glacier in the Alps. On a clear day, visibility extends into France and Germany. The experience is genuinely moving, even accounting for the crowds and the overpriced coffee.

A few practical realities: the round trip from Interlaken costs around 230 CHF at full price, though Swiss Travel Pass holders and Eurail pass holders get significant discounts. The journey takes about two and a half hours each way. Book early departure times in summer — clouds typically build by midday and can obscure the views entirely by early afternoon. The altitude causes mild discomfort for some visitors; people with heart or lung conditions should check with a doctor first.

If the Jungfraujoch price is a stretch, Schilthorn is the alternative worth knowing. Accessible via Mürren, it sits at 2,970 meters and was famously used in the 1969 Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The revolving restaurant at the top is kitsch done well, and the 360-degree views of the Bernese Alps are spectacular at a lower ticket price.

For something less crowded and more intimate, the Harder Kulm funicular climbs directly from Interlaken Ost to a viewpoint at 1,322 meters. It’s not the Jungfraujoch, but the panorama over both lakes and the town below is exactly the kind of perspective that reframes everything you’ve seen at ground level. Evening trips are particularly worthwhile.

When You’d Rather Stay at Ground Level

Not every day in Interlaken needs to involve altitude or adrenaline. The valley floor and lake shores offer a different but equally compelling version of the region.

Brienzersee is the less-visited of the two lakes and arguably the more beautiful. The water runs a deep, almost surreal turquoise from glacial silt, and the southern shore in particular is undeveloped and quiet. The paddle steamer service from Interlaken Ost to Brienz takes about an hour each way, and the ride through mountain reflections is one of the most peaceful experiences the region offers.

Thunersee to the west is larger and more developed, with castle towns along its shore. Spiez and its medieval castle perched above the lake is a 20-minute train ride and genuinely lovely on a clear afternoon when the water turns green-blue and the vineyards on the slopes above town come into focus.

The Lombach trail through the Saxeten Valley is a quiet half-day hike that most visitors never find. The path follows a narrow gorge through old-growth forest above the village of Wilderswil, and in early summer the meadows are thick with alpine wildflowers. It requires no special equipment and provides a completely different relationship with the landscape than the mountain railways.

St. Beatus Caves on the north shore of Thunersee are genuinely impressive limestone caverns accessible by boat from Interlaken West. The cave system extends for kilometers, and the guided portion covers the highlights including stalactite formations and an underground waterfall. It’s an especially good option in poor weather when the mountains are clouded over.

Where to Eat and Drink in Interlaken

The food scene in Interlaken is serviceable rather than exceptional, but there are good meals to be found if you’re willing to step away from the Höheweg’s tourist-oriented restaurants.

Swiss cuisine in this part of the country leans heavily on dairy. Raclette — melted cheese scraped over boiled potatoes with pickles and pearl onions — and Rösti, the crispy fried potato cake that the German-speaking Swiss treat as a birthright, are both worth ordering if you haven’t had them before. They’re simple, filling, and exactly right after a day in the mountains.

El Azteca on Jungfraustrasse sounds like a mismatch but has been a reliable local favorite for years, with a relaxed atmosphere and reasonable prices by Swiss standards. It’s the kind of place where you realize that “where locals eat” in a tourist-heavy town sometimes means the non-Swiss restaurant that tourists overlook.

Restaurant Schuh on the Höheweg is the grand old café of Interlaken — it’s been here since 1818 and the terrace faces the meadow and mountains. The prices are high and it’s unambiguously touristy, but the cakes and pastries are excellent, and for a coffee and a slice of something with that view, it’s worth it once.

Benacus near the West station does solid Italian food at prices that feel almost reasonable, which in Interlaken counts as a win. The lunch set menu is the best value in town.

For self-catering, the Migros and Coop supermarkets near Interlaken West are where locals shop. Building your own picnic — cheese, cured meats, bread, and local fruit — and eating it by the lake is both cheaper than any restaurant and, frankly, often more enjoyable.

The bar scene is centered around the hostels and a few sports bars near Interlaken Ost. Buddy’s Pub has been the traveler’s meeting point for decades and remains reliably lively without being oppressive. The bar at Balmers Hostel attracts a young international crowd and is where solo travelers end up by default.

Getting Around Interlaken and the Surrounding Region

Within the town itself, you can walk everywhere. The distance from Interlaken West to Interlaken Ost along the Höheweg is about two kilometers — a 25-minute walk that passes through the heart of town. There’s a local bus, but it’s rarely necessary unless you’re carrying heavy luggage.

The mountain railway network operated by Jungfrau Railways and Berner Oberland Bahn is extremely well-organized. From Interlaken Ost, trains depart regularly for Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Wengen (car-free), Mürren (car-free), and the cascade of mountain stations up to Jungfraujoch. Schedules are reliable and connections are tight but honest.

The Swiss Travel Pass covers the standard rail network, boats on both lakes, and most regional trains. It does not cover the full journey to Jungfraujoch (you still pay a summit supplement), but the discount is substantial. If you’re spending more than three or four days in Switzerland, do the math — the pass usually pays for itself quickly in the Bernese Oberland.

The Berner Oberland Regional Pass is an alternative worth knowing if you’re staying specifically in this region for several days. It covers unlimited travel on most mountain railways, boats, and buses in the area and can be better value than point-to-point tickets for intensive itineraries.

Renting a bike from shops near either station opens up the valley floor considerably. The cycle path along Brienzersee to Brienz is flat, well-surfaced, and one of the nicest bike rides in Switzerland. E-bikes are widely available if the idea of flat terrain with occasional headwinds sounds unappealing.

Driving in Interlaken itself is possible but offers no real advantage within town. However, having a car unlocks some of the quieter valleys — particularly Haslital east of Brienz and the Kander Valley south toward Kandersteg — that aren’t well-served by public transport.

Day Trips That Reward the Effort

Lauterbrunnen is a 20-minute train ride from Interlaken Ost and belongs on any visit to the region. The valley is one of the deepest and most dramatic in the Alps — sheer rock walls rise 300 meters on either side, and 72 waterfalls pour down them, including the famous Staubbach Falls that tumbles freely for nearly 300 meters directly into the village. The valley inspired Tolkien’s Rivendell, which feels appropriately on the nose. From Lauterbrunnen, cable cars and trains ascend to the car-free villages of Wengen and Mürren, both of which offer exceptional hiking with less competition than the main peaks.

Grindelwald sits in a broader, sunnier valley and has more of a resort town feel than Lauterbrunnen. The north face of the Eiger dominates the view so completely that you spend half your time craning your neck. The First cable car above Grindelwald leads to the Cliff Walk and First Flyer zip line, as well as some of the best accessible hiking in the region. The hike from First down to Bachalpsee lake on a clear morning is the kind of walk that ends up in your memory permanently.

Brienz, accessible by boat or train along the north shore of the lake, is a small town with a different character — quieter, woodcarving-obsessed (it’s genuinely famous for it), and home to the Ballenberg Open Air Museum, which reassembles historic Swiss farmhouses and workshops from across the country into a vast living museum. It’s more engaging than it sounds. The Brienzer Rothorn rack railway that climbs from the town to the summit is one of the last steam-operated mountain railways in the world and worth doing purely as a mechanical spectacle.

Thun to the west is the most city-like destination accessible from Interlaken. The medieval old town, the castle above it, and the covered shopping streets along the Aare river make for a genuine change of pace. Thun has better restaurants than Interlaken, a more intact traditional Swiss streetscape, and the kind of everyday life that a resort town like Interlaken deliberately sidesteps.

Practical Tips for Getting It Right

Getting to Interlaken: The closest major airport is Zurich, about two hours by direct train to Interlaken Ost with a change in Bern. Geneva is slightly further at around two and a half hours. There is no direct airport connection — you’ll go via Swiss mainline rail, which is seamless and well-signposted. From Bern, regional trains run to Interlaken roughly every 30 minutes.

When to go: Summer (June through September) is peak season for hiking, outdoor sports, and clear mountain views. July and August are the busiest months — prices are highest and accommodation books up weeks in advance. Late June and September offer the best balance of good weather and thinner crowds. Winter transforms the region into a ski destination; Grindelwald and Wengen are the primary ski areas, and Interlaken itself becomes significantly quieter and cheaper. Spring (April–May) can be unpredictable but delivers spectacular snowmelt waterfalls and green valley floors.

Where to stay: For mountain railway access, Interlaken Ost-side accommodation saves time and stress. Budget travelers are well-served by Balmer’s Hostel and Funny Farm, both of which have genuine character rather than the sterile hostel aesthetic. Mid-range hotels cluster around the Höheweg; the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel at the top end is one of Switzerland’s genuinely great classic hotels if the budget allows for a splurge. Staying in Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald instead of Interlaken itself is worth considering — you’re closer to the mountains and the villages have more character, though the accommodation costs are comparable.

Altitude and weather: The Jungfraujoch sits above 3,400 meters. Mild altitude sickness — headache, breathlessness, light-headedness — affects some visitors. The standard advice is to move slowly, drink water, and avoid alcohol until you’re back at valley level. More importantly, check the weather forecast before booking the train up. The Jungfrau webcam (jungfrau.ch) shows current visibility at the summit; going on a cloudy day is an expensive disappointment.

What to avoid: The souvenir shops on the Höheweg are overpriced and generic — Swiss chocolates and watches are better purchased at Coop or a proper watchmaker. Currency exchange booths on the main street offer poor rates; use a bank ATM or your card directly. Avoid booking adventure activities through hotel desks if possible — going directly to operators usually saves 10 to 15 percent. And don’t spend your entire trip in Interlaken town itself; the place is a base, and the surrounding valleys are where the real experience is.

Cash and costs: Switzerland uses the Swiss franc (CHF), not euros. Some places accept euros, but the exchange rate they apply is invariably unfavorable. Interlaken is expensive even by Swiss standards — a sit-down meal runs 25 to 45 CHF, a coffee around 5 CHF, and beer in a bar around 8 CHF. Budget travelers who self-cater and focus on free hiking rather than mountain railways can get through a day on 80 to 100 CHF without feeling deprived. Full-service days including a Jungfraujoch trip and a guided activity can easily exceed 350 to 400 CHF per person.

None of this should be discouraging. Interlaken asks for money and delivers spectacle at a scale that’s genuinely hard to match. The mountains aren’t oversold. The railways are as good as they sound. And the view from the Höhematte on a clear evening, with the Jungfrau catching the last light and the paragliders drifting down through it, earns the town every superlative it’s ever received.

📷 Featured image by Tucker Monticelli on Unsplash.